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GoodnessGoshen
Knowing Your Hair Type
~7.1 mins read
Let’s start here: Your hair is beautiful.
It may soak up your time and money. It may morph the moment you step out into actual weather. It may dramatically defy what other people say “good hair†should do. Never mind all that.
Whether fine, thick, long, short, matte, glossy, curly, coily, or straight, your hair deserves respect. Get to know your hair’s curl patterns, its porosity, density, and styling needs because healthy self-care includes your hair.
What does hair type mean?
Your hair type is primarily based on your hair’s curl pattern. The amount of curl in your hair is determined by your hair follicle. The shape of your follicle determines whether your hair is:
straight
wavy
curly
coily
The more oval or asymmetrical your follicle is, the curlier your hair will be.
Your hair type is determined by genetics.
You can alter your curl pattern with heat or chemicals, and your curl pattern can changed somewhat by hormones or medications you’re taking, but your basic curl pattern is in your DNA.
Every time your hair goes through its growth cycle, those genetic characteristics are reasserted.
What types of hair are there?
Andre Walker, known for decades as Oprah Winfrey’s stylist, is credited with devising a system that classifies hair according to one of four curl patterns:
Type 1 Straight hair
Type 2 Wavy hair
Type 3 Curly hair
Type 4 Coily hair
These types are further divided into subcategories based on the tightness or looseness of the curls and coils. It may sound simple, but like most attempts to define human characteristics, it isn’t.
You could have type 4C at your crown and 4A at your temples. Your hair could be straight at the root and wavy at the ends. The key is to understand what each type needs so you can style it well and keep it healthy.
How to style and care for your hair type
Type 1: Straight
Type 1 hair has no natural curl. The individual strands may be fine or coarse, thick or thin, but they fall without waving from root to tip.
Type 1 hair has a tendency to become oily, so many stylists recommend that you check the label to be sure the product you’re buying isn’t going to add extra oil to your hair.
Stylist Kristi Lovelace also suggests avoiding heavy serums or butters. “With straight or fine hair, I’d recommend texture sprays instead. Dry shampoos are also a good idea,†she said.
Washing your hair too often can cause your scalp to overproduce oils, so dry shampoo is a boon for people with straight, oily hair.
Lovelace says most women come into salons with Instagram or Pinterest photos of the style they want.
“I usually recommend styles based more on face shape than on hair type,†she said. “One style that’s really popular right now is a chin-length blunt cut, which works really well with straight hair.â€
Type 2: Wavy hair
Type 2A
The natural state of type 2 hair is a gentle, tousled texture. From the roots to around eye level, your hair is fairly straight. And from eye level to the ends, you have a loose, undefined wave.
To keep from flattening out that wave, steer clear of oil-based or creamy products. Instead, stylists recommend that you boost the base with a light mousse or use a gel to define those waves.
Type 2B
As with 2A, type 2B hair curls from the midpoint to the ends. The curls have a more defined S shape. It may require a little more effort to straighten, but it’s easy to create that beachy look with a spritz of salt spray.
Type 2B is ideal for the balayage trend, where stylists hand-paint color on the outer layer of hair.
“When people come in with pictures of balayage,†Lovelace said, “the photo is always going to show wavy hair because when that hair curls around, it’s getting dimension from the back side. People with wavy hair don’t have to go out of their way to style this look.â€
Type 2C
The most well-defined S-shaped waves are type 2C. The wave pattern may begin close to the crown and tumble downward. Type 2C hair is often thick and can be prone to frizz in damp weather.
Lovelace recommends using a diffuser, a toothy devise that snaps onto the end of your blow dryer and helps eliminate the frizz.
“I am a huge advocate for products, especially where you’ve got environmental factors like hard water and salt water,†Lovelace said. “Anti-humidity products are huge.â€
People with 2C hair may be frustrated with alternating between daily straightening, which can damage hair, and trying to find ways to enhance and control their waves. The good news is that many lightweight mousses now contain anti-humidity ingredients along with moisture.
Type 3: Curly
Type 3A
With type 3A hair, S-shaped curls form loose loops. The curls have a circumference a little wider than the large end of a taper candle. One important styling note: Brushing this type of hair can wreck curl definition and lead to a frizzy mane.
Silvana Castillo, master stylist and founder of The Curl Whisperer, a Miami salon specializing in hair types 3 and 4, recommends styles and products that define natural curl. Her best advice? Lose the ponytail.
“It’s OK if you’re on the way to the gym,†Castillo said, “or if it’s required for work. But pulling your hair back into a ponytail causes curls to lose their formation. And if you keep pulling your hair back into a bun or ponytail, you will also start to see thinning and hair loss at your hairline.â€
That hair loss happens because the weight of the ponytail pulls against the front of the hair for prolonged periods.
Type 3B
Type 3B curls have a circumference about as wide as the barrel of a Sharpie marker. Curls spring from the roots and have ample volume. To maintain their characteristic spiral shape, these ringlets generally need moisture.
Avoid silicone and sulfates in your curl products, though. They may temporarily tame frizz, but they can dry hair over time and lead to breakage.
Type 3C
These curls are tight and springy — they would coil perfectly around a drinking straw. To preserve the definition in these corkscrew curls, take a hands-on approach.
Instead of combing, which can lead to frizz and breakage, use a leave-in conditioner and rake through wet hair with your fingertips. The American Academy of Dermatology recommends that you air-dry instead of using a blow dryer.
Type 4: Coils
Type 4A
The curl pattern for 4A hair is an S-shaped coil you could wrap around a chopstick.
“Type 4 hair is the most delicate hair type,†Castillo said. “You have to be very gentle with it, and it needs a lot of moisture.†But getting moisture doesn’t necessarily mean using oils. Deep conditioning masques, butters, and creams are good options for preserving hair health.
“We recommend that people wear it loose in wash-and-go styles,†she said.
One thing The Curl Whisperer salon doesn’t advocate for is protective styles like weaves and braids.
Though some stylists swear by styles that allow you to tuck away fragile ends to protect them while they grow out, Castillo says these styles often do more harm than good. While the hair is out of sight, it’s also out of reach for conditioning treatments.
“When you have had your hair in a protective style for weeks, the curl formation is completely gone. The cuticle is so dry and open that it becomes like little fish hooks that catch on each other and break when you take out the braids,†Castillo said.
Better to wear it in a style that lets you keep moisturizing.
Type 4B
The curls in 4B hair zig-zag. One popular technique for defining and accentuating your curls is shingling.
Shingling begins with wet hair. Gently detangle with your fingertips, using liberal amounts of leave-in conditioner to moisturize and condition. Then separate your hair into four sections.
Work curling cream or gel down the length of each curl, twisting the strands around your index finger as you go.
Type 4C
Type 4C coils are the tightest and most fragile. It’s really easy to break them if you comb roughly or too often, and it’s vital to frequently nourish the hair with rich conditioners.
Coconut oils are still popular, as are shea butter creams. More people are ditching shampoo for co-washing, or rinsing the hair with conditioners instead.
In terms of style, 4C hair is having a moment.
“What we’re seeing is the younger generation wants their hair to be bold,†Castillo said. “They want the hair to be big and round, almost like a sun. And they want to experiment with fun colors — always keeping in mind the health of the hair.â€
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GoodnessGoshen
BATTLING DEPRESSION
~4.4 mins read
When you’re depressed, you can’t just will yourself to “snap out of it.†But these tips can help put you on the road to recovery.
Depression drains your energy, hope, and drive, making it difficult to take the steps that will help you to feel better. Sometimes, just thinking about the things you should do to feel better, like exercising or spending time with friends, can seem exhausting or impossible to put into action.
It’s the Catch-22 of depression recovery: The things that help the most are the things that are the most difficult to do. There is a big difference, however, between something that’s difficult and something that’s impossible. While recovering from depression isn’t quick or easy, you do have more control than you realize—even if your depression is severe and stubbornly persistent. The key is to start small and build from there. You may not have much energy, but by drawing on all your reserves, you should have enough to take a walk around the block or pick up the phone to call a loved one, for example.
Taking the first step is always the hardest. But going for a walk or getting up and dancing to your favorite music, for example, is something you can do right now. And it can substantially boost your mood and energy for several hours—long enough to put a second recovery step into action, such as preparing a mood-boosting meal or arranging to meet an old friend. By taking the following small but positive steps day by day, you’ll soon lift the heavy fog of depression and find yourself feeling happier, healthier, and more hopeful again.
Getting support plays an essential role in overcoming depression. On your own, it can be difficult to maintain a healthy perspective and sustain the effort required to beat depression. At the same time, the very nature of depression makes it difficult to reach out for help. When you’re depressed, the tendency is to withdraw and isolate so that connecting to even close family members and friends can be tough.
You may feel too exhausted to talk, ashamed at your situation, or guilty for neglecting certain relationships. But this is just the depression talking. Staying connected to other people and taking part in social activities will make a world of difference in your mood and outlook. Reaching out is not a sign of weakness and it won’t mean you’re a burden to others. Your loved ones care about you and want to help. And if you don’t feel that you have anyone to turn to, it’s never too late to build new friendships and improve your support network.
How to reach out for depression support
Look for support from people who make you feel safe and cared for. The person you talk to doesn’t have to be able to fix you; they just need to be a good listener—someone who’ll listen attentively and compassionately without being distracted or judging you.
Make face-time a priority. Phone calls, social media, and texting are great ways to stay in touch, but they don’t replace good old-fashioned in-person quality time. The simple act of talking to someone face to face about how you feel can play a big role in relieving depression and keeping it away.
Try to keep up with social activities even if you don’t feel like it. Often when you’re depressed, it feels more comfortable to retreat into your shell, but being around other people will make you feel less depressed.
Find ways to support others. It’s nice to receive support, but research shows you get an even bigger mood boost from providing support yourself. So find ways—both big and small—to help others: volunteer, be a listening ear for a friend, do something nice for somebody.
Care for a pet. While nothing can replace the human connection, pets can bring joy and companionship into your life and help you feel less isolated. Caring for a pet can also get you outside of yourself and give you a sense of being needed—both powerful antidotes to depression.
Join a support group for depression. Being with others dealing with depression can go a long way in reducing your sense of isolation. You can also encourage each other, give and receive advice on how to cope, and share your experiences.
In order to overcome depression, you have to do things that relax and energize you. This includes following a healthy lifestyle, learning how to better manage stress, setting limits on what you’re able to do, and scheduling fun activities into your day.
Do things you enjoy (or used to)
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